In our previous post, we discussed acne’s biology and how it develops via several interlinked mechanisms –
Altered sebum production
Follicular hyperkeratinization
Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) ecology
Inflammatory immune activation
Today, we’ll go through How CTC’s formula has been engineered to target these mechanisms.
Acne isn’t one-note. It emerges from a network of pathways – oil changes, clogged pores, bacterial imbalance, immune overreaction. That’s why we built CTC to work across these fronts. 5% azelaic acid for pigmentation + inflammation, 2% encapsulated salicylic acid for gentle exfoliation + bacterial control, peptides for repair and barrier strength, and antioxidants to guard against external damage.
Our barrier-first + anti-inflammatory approach to acne means we build every treatment to hit multiple points in the acne cycle. CTC is designed exactly that way.
5% Azelaic Acid (AA) Anti-keratinizing, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory.
AA helps reduces melanogenesis, weaken C. acnes and moderates pigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Studies show that 15–20% AA reduces inflammatory acne and PIH.
Here, the 5% is lower than traditional 15–20%, which reduces irritation risk but maintain activity when combined with other actives.
2% Encapsulated Salicylic Acid in cyclodextrin complex (controlled release).
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates inside the follicle (keratolytic), opens blocked pores, and has mild anti-inflammatory and bacteriostatic activity. Complexing with cyclodextrin enhances stability, prolongs release, and reduces irritation.
In CTC, the encapsulated SA provides a gentler, sustained action to help reduce keratin plug formation and bacterial activation without overwhelming sensitive adult skin.
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates inside the follicle (keratolytic), opens blocked pores, and has mild anti-inflammatory and bacteriostatic activity. Complexing with cyclodextrin enhances stability, prolongs release, and reduces irritation.
In CTC, the encapsulated SA provides a gentler, sustained action to help reduce keratin plug formation and bacterial activation without overwhelming sensitive adult skin.
Biomimetic Peptides / Multi-peptides
Peptides can help modulate inflammation, support skin repair (collagen, ECM), and help reduce damage/scarring post-lesion.
Peptides can help modulate inflammation, support skin repair (collagen, ECM), and help reduce damage/scarring post-lesion.
CTC uses biomimetic peptides to accelerate repair of the microdamage caused by acne lesions and reduce lingering texture or pockmarks; also to protect barrier function.
Tyrosinase Inhibitors
After inflammation, melanocytes are stimulated; tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin production, so inhibitors help reduce pigmentation (especially PIH).
Combined with AA, tyrosinase inhibitors help reduce discoloration left behind after spots fade.
After inflammation, melanocytes are stimulated; tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin production, so inhibitors help reduce pigmentation (especially PIH).
Combined with AA, tyrosinase inhibitors help reduce discoloration left behind after spots fade.
Amino Acid Derivatives (Antioxidant / Protective)
Oxidative stress from free radicals from UV, pollution, & inflammation damages lipids, proteins, & DNA, it amplifies immune response; the protective antioxidants help mitigate this.
These components shield skin from extrinsic (pollution, sunlight, IR) and intrinsic (oxidation, chemical stress) causes of inflammation, reducing secondary damage and maintaining barrier resilience.
These components shield skin from extrinsic (pollution, sunlight, IR) and intrinsic (oxidation, chemical stress) causes of inflammation, reducing secondary damage and maintaining barrier resilience.
Why the Combination Matters
Synergy Over Single Actives
Synergy Over Single Actives
Research indicates that treating acne with multi-targeted formulas (targeting both keratinization, sebum, bacterial load, and inflammation) is more effective and leads to fewer relapses. Azelaic acid (AA) has been shown in trials to be useful alone for mild-moderate acne, but outcomes improve when combined with exfoliants or antibacterials.
Similarly, using salicylic acid in a controlled release/encapsulated form improves tolerability and reduces irritation, which is especially important in adult acne (where the barrier is more fragile and PIH risk higher).
What You Should Expect with CTC Use
Because the formula hits multiple acne-pathogenic pillars, here’s what you can expect (approximate timeline, depending on individual skin).
Weeks 1–2
Possible mild tingling/exfoliation from SA.
Possible mild tingling/exfoliation from SA.
Gentle cleanup of pores, some reduction in new inflamed lesions.
Weeks 3–6
Visible improvement: fewer new breakouts, reduction in redness and irritation, pigmentation starting to improve.
Weeks 6-12
Improved texture, fewer bumps/comedones, barrier feeling stronger, less post-blemish residual marks, and skin looks more even.
Maintenance phase
Continued use to prevent relapse.
Weeks 3–6
Visible improvement: fewer new breakouts, reduction in redness and irritation, pigmentation starting to improve.
Weeks 6-12
Improved texture, fewer bumps/comedones, barrier feeling stronger, less post-blemish residual marks, and skin looks more even.
Maintenance phase
Continued use to prevent relapse.
Barrier-supporting peptides and antioxidants help reduce flare risk from external triggers.